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May

8

Tips on Stained Glass Care & Cleaning

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May 8th, 2008 by hojpoj

If you have some stained glass art, such as a panel or suncatcher, and have been wondering on how to care for it - here are some tips to keep it looking bright and new.

#1 The less you handle it, the better!
Oils from your fingers and unsightly smudges will get your glasswork dingy in no time. If you need to handle it, try holding it only by the edges or by the chain or cord. This will also help prevent undo stress on any joints, especially in 3D objects.

#2 Start with the mildest form of cleaning
Keep your glasswork dusted lightly from time to time. Often, this is all that will be needed. If you do need to get off a few smudges, use crumpled newspaper to gently buff out them out. If that isn’t enough, a slightly damp (preferably one that won’t shed fibers) cloth should work just fine. Try only to use distilled water, as hard water can create unsightly spots.

#3 If grime persists, use mild detergents/cleansers that contain no ammonia or vinegar, and have no abrasives
Mild dish soap used sparingly should work great for some more stubborn grunge or you can try glass cleansers. Please be aware that products that are acidic will not react well with the lead (either came or solder) and some types of glass, causing undo aging and pitting. I recommend Sparkle Glass Cleaner - it’s tough but non-harmful to stained glass and lead. If the lead is dingy or oxidizing (a white powdery substance) you can use a little baking soda mixed with distilled water and a soft toothbrush to lightly scrub the solder or lead came. Make sure to dry your glass piece thoroughly.

#4 Glass wax & polishing is optional, if above tips are followed
Many artisans use glass wax products to both clean and add luster to finished pieces. These products are often available at hardware stores, but remember - follow the directions carefully if you choose to do this. If you follow the above tips, you should not need to resort to wax polish products.

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May

5

Lampworking Bead Presses

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May 5th, 2008 by willowglass

Question : I am new at lampwork bead making, and in my many searches on the computer I came across a site that had (small) molds or presses. I thought the site was Itsy Bitsy something, but now I can’t seem to find it again even though I bookmarked it. Do you know of any site like this? Please help ! Asked by Dianna

The presses you’re thinking of are from http://zooziis.com according to our lampworking artists. Have fun!

Answered by Susan of susansheehan and Michael of protege

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Nov

20

Ask the Artists: Enameling with a Torch

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November 20th, 2007 by Lis

Question: I really want to experiment with enamels on fine silver. I am a click away from buying a sampler kit, but the problem is that I don’t have a kiln. I have read articles on firing with a torch, but I am wondering about evenness and firescale. Can anyone give me your thoughts or experience using a torch to fire enamel? Is it necessary for me to use scalex to prevent firescale?

Asked by Rachael, Mezze Designs

Answer from Jo: I would really hesitate to try to torch fire enamels. As the glass cools quickly I would expect cracking. You can get mini-kilns that are just big enough to fire a piece of enameling, and they aren’t too expensive. Rio Grande has a great little one for PMC or enamels for $152.

Answer from Mary: When enameling on silver, you should only use fine silver .999 alloy. Sterling can only be used if the fine silver is brought up to the surface first and that is a very laborious process. I would advise against torch-firing silver because it is necessary to enamel both sides of the piece to avoid cracking and direct torch firing on the counter enamel will damage it and weaken the piece.

If you are mainly planning on making small pieces for jewelry, small inexpensive kilns are available through Rio Grande as was mentioned and also Thompson enamels carries a good selection of kilns espressly designed for enameling.

I hope this is helpful.

Answered by Jo of Dogmaw Glass and Mary of Marstinia.

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Sep

7

Ask the Artists: Drilling Sea Glass

Filed Under Ask the Artists | 1 Comment
September 7th, 2007 by Lis

Question: I have a collection of sea glass and I wanted to make a bracelet using the glass. My first question would be, what do I use to drill the tiny hole in the sea glass? I want to turn them into a bead of some sorts. And my second question is, would fishing line be fine to string these sea glass beads onto. Or would a metal wire be better? Please keep in mind that I have no experience with glass or beads. Or any type of jewlery making.

Asked by Corrie

Answer from Dee: I love sea glass! I would use a cordless Dremel drill with a diamond bit to get the kind of hole you’re looking for. You’d need to drill underwater (hence the cordless drill, because combining water and electricity = yikes!) You’d be drilling underwater to reduce stress on the glass and also to keep the drill bit cool. Start the drill at a low speed which you can increase once you get started. Just go slow and easy and do some practice pieces first with glass you don’t absolutely love just to get the hang of it.

As far as stringing material, I’d stay away from fishing line because it is too brittle. You could use TigerTail or a similar type of beading cord instead so your beautiful bracelet will hold up to wear.

Have fun with your project and let us know if you need any other help!

Answer from Laura: A way to keep the piece stable while you are drilling(and you do need a special diamond bit) is to take a small bit of modeling clay and stick it to the bottom of a tupperware container. Then stick your piece of glass to it and fill it up with water to where the surface of the glass is slightly covered.

The modeling clay gives you “grip” and stability while you are drilling and it is easy to tell when you have drilled through the piece-you can feel when you have hit the clay. Make sure the surface of the clay is sticking out around your piece.

Answer from Marcy: I’d also like to add that if you need additional glass that looks like the sea glass, a number of us lampworkers can provide that for you. We take our glass, melt and form it into the shape and size, and then use a special acid to give it that ocean and sand washed etched look.

Answered by Dee of Willow Glass, Laura of Talisman Art Glass
and Marcy of Studio Marcy.

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Sep

7

Ask the Artists: Heating Elements

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September 7th, 2007 by Lis

Question: About how long can a heating element for an enameling kiln be expected to last? (for one of those little hotplate kilns).

Asked by Alison of Copperheart Designs.

Answer: It would depend on how often you used it. If you use it once a month its going to last longer than if you were to use it twic

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Customer Creations

Member Blogs

Street Teams

Indie Blogs

May

8

Tips on Stained Glass Care & Cleaning

May

5

Lampworking Bead Presses

Nov

20

Ask the Artists: Enameling with a Torch

Sep

7

Ask the Artists: Drilling Sea Glass

Sep

7

Ask the Artists: Heating Elements